{"id":2922,"date":"2020-03-31T08:57:16","date_gmt":"2020-03-31T08:57:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tripblok.cz\/?p=2922"},"modified":"2020-03-31T08:57:16","modified_gmt":"2020-03-31T08:57:16","slug":"phnom-penh-ho-chi-minh","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/?p=2922","title":{"rendered":"Phnom Penh -> Ho Chi Minh"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

[11. – 16. 3. 2020]<\/p>\n

Z celoplo\u0161n\u011b rozkopan\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edstavu Sihanukville se p\u0159esouv\u00e1me do kambod\u017esk\u00e9ho hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta. Cesta st\u00edsn\u011bn\u00fdm mikrobusem trv\u00e1 8 hodin. Pod nohy n\u00e1m \u0161oupli pytel cementu a o z\u00e1bavu se star\u00e1 pan\u00ed na sedadle za n\u00e1mi, kter\u00e1 pou\u0161t\u00ed z mobilu lidov\u00e9 p\u00edsn\u011b na maxim\u00e1ln\u00ed volume. Dvoumilionov\u00fd Phnom Penh je zapr\u00e1\u0161en\u00e1 divo\u010dina bez chodn\u00edk\u016f, jen\u017e p\u016fsob\u00ed p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b dobr\u00fdm dojmem. \u0160irok\u00fdm bulv\u00e1r\u016fm vl\u00e1dnou hbit\u00e9 tuktuky, kter\u00e9 jsou v\u017edy a v\u0161ude p\u0159ipraveny nacucnout pasa\u017e\u00e9ry a za 1-3 dollary je vyprcnout o X blok\u016f d\u00e1l. S drzou plynulost\u00ed a \u00fam\u011brnou (ne)bezpe\u010dnost\u00ed proklouz\u00e1vaj\u00ed vyt\u00ed\u017een\u00fdmi k\u0159i\u017eovatkami bez semafor\u016f jako po m\u00e1sle, \u010d\u00edm\u017e zast\u00e1vaj\u00ed pozici nejefektivn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho dopravn\u00edho prost\u0159edku \u0161iroko daleko.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00edm z\u00e1\u017eitkem byla n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva Muzea genocidy v prostor\u00e1ch v\u011bznice S-21, kter\u00e1 slou\u017eila k mu\u010den\u00ed a vyhlazov\u00e1n\u00ed zajatc\u016f Pol Potova tyransk\u00e9ho re\u017eimu Rud\u00fdch Khmer\u016f v letech 1975-79. Ostnat\u00e9 dr\u00e1ty, temn\u00e9 kobky, zahn\u011bdl\u00e9 skvrny od krve a fotografie utr\u00fdzn\u011bn\u00fdch ob\u011bt\u00ed ve m\u011b zanech\u00e1v\u00e1j\u00ed pocit pr\u00e1zdnoty, ze kter\u00e9ho se mi d\u011bl\u00e1 \u0161patn\u011b. Pro odleh\u010den\u00ed n\u00e1lady vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na divadeln\u00ed p\u0159edstaven\u00ed n\u00e1rodn\u00edho tance Apsara, kter\u00e9 zafungovalo jak jsme doufali, tak\u017ee odch\u00e1z\u00edme zase vesel\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vietnamsk\u00e1 ambas\u00e1da v Phnom Penh n\u00e1m vydala turistick\u00e1 v\u00edza (po $50), co\u017e ch\u00e1peme jako pozv\u00e1nku k bezprobl\u00e9mov\u00e9mu vstupu do zem\u011b. Jak jinak bychom to taky m\u011bli ch\u00e1pat? V\u00edtr z plachet n\u00e1m v\u0161ak vz\u00e1p\u011bt\u00ed bere dispe\u010derka autobusov\u00e9 dopravy se sv\u00fdm blacklistem n\u00e1rodnost\u00ed, kter\u00e9 celn\u00edci ot\u00e1\u010d\u00ed o 180 stup\u0148\u016f. Czechia mezi nimi. Nechce se n\u00e1m tomu v\u011b\u0159it, dle ofici\u00e1ln\u00edho prohl\u00e1\u0161en\u00ed Vietnamsk\u00e9 vl\u00e1dy zat\u00edm \u010cesk\u00e1 Republika spl\u0148uje vstupn\u00ed krit\u00e9ria (nem\u00e1 500+ p\u0159\u00edpad\u016f koronaviru ani jednodenn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edr\u016fstek o 50+ \/ k 13.3.20). Nav\u00edc n\u00e1m pr\u00e1v\u011b dali v\u00edza, tak p\u0159ece by n\u00e1s prachsprost\u011b neokradli a neposlali na 5 hodin vzd\u00e1lenou hranici, kdyby n\u00e1s necht\u011bli pustit d\u00e1l. Rozhodujeme se proto nedbat varov\u00e1n\u00ed a nastupujeme do minibusu.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Silni\u010dn\u00ed transport po Kambod\u017ei nen\u00ed zrovna na seznamu na\u0161ich nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u010dinnost\u00ed. \u00da\u010dastn\u00edci dopravn\u00edho provozu, od kravsk\u00e9ho sp\u0159e\u017een\u00ed a\u017e po kamiony, soupe\u0159\u00ed o m\u00edsto na hrbolat\u00e9 vozovce, nep\u0159etr\u017eit\u011b troub\u00ed a sebevra\u017eedn\u011b p\u0159edj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e spol\u00e9haj\u00ed, \u017ee protijedouc\u00ed vozidlo p\u0159ibrzd\u00ed nebo vybo\u010d\u00ed na \u0161t\u011brkovou krajnici. P\u00e1sy nem\u00e1me, proto\u017ee nejsou, klimatizace nejede a n\u00e1\u0161 \u0159idi\u010d \/ DJ \u010dum\u00ed m\u00edsto na cestu imrvere do mobilu a pou\u0161t\u00ed cambodian techno. Prvn\u00ed hodinu mu nerv\u00f3zn\u011b kouk\u00e1m p\u0159es rameno, ale pak se smi\u0159uji s osudem a rezignovan\u011b zaplouv\u00e1m do seda\u010dky. Jestli n\u00e1s nechaj\u00ed v noci tr\u010det na p\u0159echodu, tak m\u011b asi \u0161lehne.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

P\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme ke kambod\u017esk\u00e9 hranici. Nedali n\u00e1m v\u00fdjezdn\u00ed raz\u00edtko, kdyby n\u00e1s Vietnamci oto\u010dili na podpatku, tak a\u0165 se m\u016f\u017eeme vr\u00e1tit. To teda za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 slibn\u011b. N\u00e1sleduje stresoidn\u00ed cirkus s vietnamsk\u00fdmi imigra\u010dn\u00edmi \u00fa\u0159edn\u00edky, dohadov\u00e1n\u00ed, p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed, upl\u00e1cen\u00ed a prokazov\u00e1n\u00ed na\u0161eho pobytu v uplynul\u00fdch dvou t\u00fddnech. Po p\u016fl hodin\u011b energick\u00e9ho vyjedn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed jsme spocen\u00ed jak vr\u00e1tka od chl\u00edva, ale dost\u00e1v\u00e1me ten zatracenej \u0161templ. Pak se je\u0161t\u011b pro jeden (v\u00fdjezdn\u00ed) mus\u00edme prob\u011bhnout \u010dtvrtm\u00edli zp\u00e1tky ke kambod\u017esk\u00e9 hranici, kde si n\u00e1s p\u0159ehazuj\u00ed mezi celn\u00edmi ok\u00fdnky jak horkou bramboru, ne\u017e se jeden z opi\u010d\u00edch d\u016fstojn\u00edk\u016f znechucen\u011b ur\u00e1\u010d\u00ed pohnout prdel\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Na t\u0159i dny se na\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1kladnou st\u00e1v\u00e1 vibrantn\u00ed Ho Chi Minh City, jen\u017e je se sv\u00fdmi 8 miliony obyvatel nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm m\u011bstem Vietnamu. D\u0159\u00edve zvan\u00fd Saigon v n\u00e1s probouz\u00ed pozitivn\u00ed energii nasm\u011b\u0159ovanou do aktivn\u00edho poch\u016fzk\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed a kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9ho experimentov\u00e1n\u00ed. Objedn\u00e1vka ve\u010dere zn\u00ed jako vhodn\u00fd n\u00e1zev pro nov\u00fd transformers movie. N\u00e1\u0161 v\u00fdbuch sm\u00edchu serv\u00edrka ocenila zmaten\u00fdm \u00fasm\u011bvem a miskou plnou bylin, kterou za p\u00e1r minut n\u00e1sleduje \u201cb\u00fan \u010da tron\u201d a \u201cb\u00fan bo tron\u201d. Takovou m\u0148amku jsme douho nem\u011bli.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a>
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

V r\u00e1mci kulturn\u00ed osv\u011bty jsme zav\u00edtali do interaktivn\u00edho centra piva Heineken v 60. pat\u0159e ikonick\u00e9ho mrakodrapu, kter\u00e9 pova\u017euji za vyj\u00edme\u010dn\u011b zda\u0159il\u00e9, zejm\u00e9na d\u00edky n\u00e1padit\u00e9 expozici, kr\u00e1sn\u00e9mu v\u00fdhledu a st\u00e1l\u00e9mu p\u0159\u00edsunu vychlazen\u00e9ho Heinekenu. V\u011bd\u011bli jste, \u017ee Vietnam je nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm konzumentem piva t\u00e9to zna\u010dky na sv\u011bt\u011b? O pozn\u00e1n\u00ed n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed zku\u0161enost\u00ed byla prohl\u00eddka Muzea americk\u00e9ho zlo\u010dinu, pozd\u011bji na n\u00e1tlak USA p\u0159ejmenovan\u00e9ho na Muzeum vietnamsk\u00e9 v\u00e1lky. Po shl\u00e9dnut\u00ed zdokumentovan\u00fdch zr\u016fdnost\u00ed, nap\u00e1chan\u00fdch Ameri\u010dany p\u0159i honu za moc\u00ed, nelze v \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b s p\u0159ejmenov\u00e1n\u00edm souhlasit. V druh\u00e9 polovin\u011b 20. stol. si Kambod\u017ea i Vietnam za\u017eili v\u00e1le\u010dn\u00e9 peklo, jeho\u017e dozvuky jsou citeln\u00e9 je\u0161t\u011b dnes. Pat\u0159\u00ed to k cestov\u00e1n\u00ed a pozn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed historie zem\u011b, ale \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd podobn\u00fd muzeum u\u017e hodn\u011b dlouho nechci vid\u011bt.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[11. – 16. 3. 2020] Z celoplo\u0161n\u011b rozkopan\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edstavu Sihanukville se p\u0159esouv\u00e1me do kambod\u017esk\u00e9ho hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta. Cesta st\u00edsn\u011bn\u00fdm mikrobusem trv\u00e1 8 hodin. Pod nohy n\u00e1m \u0161oupli pytel cementu a o z\u00e1bavu se star\u00e1 pan\u00ed na...<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2864,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[37],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2922"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2922"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2922\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2923,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2922\/revisions\/2923"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2864"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2922"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2922"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2922"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}