{"id":2311,"date":"2018-03-29T13:57:35","date_gmt":"2018-03-29T13:57:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tripblok.cz\/?p=2311"},"modified":"2018-05-18T18:36:33","modified_gmt":"2018-05-18T18:36:33","slug":"plan-b-z-kathmandu-do-lukly-po-zemi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/?p=2311","title":{"rendered":"Pl\u00e1n B: Z Kathmandu do Lukly po zemi"},"content":{"rendered":"

Letadlo n\u00e1m neklaplo a evidentn\u011b jsme nebyli sami, nebo\u0165 v\u0161echny lety v n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edch n\u011bkolika dnech jsou obsazen\u00fd. P\u0159istupujeme k pl\u00e1nu B, co\u017e je 11ti hodinov\u00e1 j\u00edzda jeepem. Bl\u00e1hov\u011b si pomysl\u00edm, uf aspo\u0148 se vyhnem Lukle. Jestli tax\u00edk v Kathmandu byl j\u00edzda smrti, tak toto je Armagedon. Prvn\u00ed polovina cesty je naprosto ot\u0159esn\u00e1. \u0160of\u00e9r Sam to divoce mast\u00ed \u00fazk\u00fdma serpentinama nep\u00e1lsk\u00fdch kopc\u016f, s n\u00e1ma to vzadu \u0161ije v\u00edc, ne\u017e puberta s m\u00fdm 15ti let\u00fdm br\u00e1chou Jon\u00e1\u0161em – zvan\u00fd Rebel. Nejsou to kopce, na kter\u00fd jsem zvyklej. Agrese a dramati\u010dnost s jakou se Himal\u00e1je prudce derou k nebes\u016fm je epesn\u00ed. Nad n\u00e1ma sk\u00e1la, pod n\u00e1ma sk\u00e1la, tatrovky m\u00edj\u00edme o prsa vietnamsk\u00e9 atletky, samoz\u0159ejm\u011b ze strany k \u00fatesu. Cestu mi nezleh\u010duje ani skute\u010dnost, \u017ee m\u00e1m z p\u0159ede\u0161l\u00e9 noci kocovinu jak \u0159emen. Nep\u00e1lsk\u00fd pivo je toti\u017e poctivej sedmiprocentn\u00ed t\u0159i\u010dtvrt\u011blitr\u00e1k. \u0158\u00edk\u00e1m si, \u017ee u\u017e to nem\u016f\u017ee bejt o moc hor\u0161\u00ed, \u010d\u00edm\u017e se dost\u00e1v\u00e1me do druh\u00e9 poloviny cesty. Cca 5 hodin p\u0159ed c\u00edlem kon\u010d\u00ed zpevn\u011bn\u00e1 cesta. Aha, tak proto ten jeep.. Po zbytek j\u00edzdy p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm st\u0159\u00eddav\u011b nad pravd\u011bpodobnost\u00ed sesuvu p\u016fdy pod koly na\u0161eho au\u0165\u00e1ku, odolnosti karoserie p\u0159i zavalen\u00ed balvanem, p\u00e1dem do propasti, zakut\u00e1lenou pet lahv\u00ed v oblasti ped\u00e1l\u016f a nutk\u00e1n\u00edm zvracet. P\u0159ekon\u00e1v\u00e1me sedmero hor a \u0159ek, pom\u00e1h\u00e1me m\u00edstn\u00edm vyprostit auto zasekl\u00fd na \u0161utru, ti\u0161e trp\u00edme, ale dr\u017e\u00edme se. Krom\u011b Iv\u010di, ta skoro celou cestu sp\u00ed. Nech\u00e1pem. K na\u0161emu p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed dor\u00e1\u017e\u00edme \u017eiv\u00ed a nepoblit\u00ed do c\u00edle – vesni\u010dky Phaplu (2400m), jen\u017e se nach\u00e1z\u00ed asi 50km p\u0159ed Luklou. D\u00e1l u\u017e mus\u00edme po svejch.<\/p>\n

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Dal\u0161\u00ed den kone\u010dn\u011b vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na \u0161pac\u00edr. Na z\u00e1dech m\u00e1m n\u011bjak\u00fdch 14kg (v\u00fdbava na teplotn\u00ed rozp\u011bt\u00ed 50 stup\u0148\u016f, do v\u011btru, de\u0161t\u011b a sn\u011bhu, k tomu 3L vody a trochu j\u00eddla). Doprdele to je t\u00edha! Ale bejt zase zp\u00e1tky na cest\u011b.. maan it feels good. \u010cek\u00e1 n\u00e1s n\u00e1ro\u010dnej ter\u00e9n, po rovin\u011b se v podstat\u011b nejde. Ve vesni\u010dce Thaksindu (3100m) n\u00e1s postar\u0161\u00ed mich ochotn\u011b prov\u00e1d\u00ed po rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9m buddhistick\u00e9m komplexu, kter\u00fd trvale ob\u00fdv\u00e1 p\u0159es \u010dty\u0159i des\u00edtky mnich\u016f.<\/p>\n

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Sotva jsme se vy\u0161kr\u00e1bali nahoru, sl\u00edz\u00e1me zas do 1500m. V jednu chv\u00edli se strhne lij\u00e1k, p\u0159ed kter\u00fdm se schov\u00e1me v za\u010douzen\u00e9 chatr\u010di s plechovou st\u0159echou a n\u00e1pisem Hotel. \u010cty\u0159i d\u011bcka u ohni\u0161t\u011b na n\u00e1s \u010dum\u00ed jak husy do fla\u0161ky. Nem\u00e1me velice pocit, \u017ee jsme v\u00edt\u00e1ni, tak\u017ee po taktn\u011b miz\u00edme. Proch\u00e1z\u00edme p\u0159es zapomenut\u00fd horsk\u00fd vesni\u010dky, kde se zastavil \u010das. Vesni\u010dani tvrd\u011b pracujou, na hlav\u011b nos\u00ed t\u011b\u017ek\u00fd n\u00e1klady, ob\u010das se sm\u011bjou a ob\u010das se tv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed, jak kdybysme jim \u0161lapali po p\u0159edzahr\u00e1dce. Nem\u016f\u017eu jim to m\u00edt za zl\u00fd, vhledem k tomu, \u017ee je to pravda. D\u011bcka jsou \u0161pinav\u00fd, usoplen\u00fd a bez bot. Pob\u00edhaj\u00ed kolem n\u00e1s a pok\u0159ikujou \u201cnamaste!\u201d<\/p>\n

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Hlavn\u00edm p\u0159epravn\u00edm prost\u0159edkem mezi vesni\u010dkama jsou muly. Vypadaj\u00ed jako n\u011bco mezi pon\u00edkem a oslem a d\u011bsn\u011b p\u00e1chnou. Je mn\u011b jich l\u00edto, ba\u010dov\u00e9 se s nima nep\u00e1\u0159ou. Dv\u011b plynov\u00fd bomby na h\u0159bet, popruhy za\u0159\u00edznut\u00fd do krve, proutkem p\u0159es zadek a u\u017e klop\u00fdtaj\u00ed po \u0161utrech do kopce. Cesta je n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1, kamenito-pra\u0161n\u00e1 a pokryt\u00e1 mul\u00fdmi exkrementy.<\/p>\n

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T\u0159et\u00ed den na cest\u011b je lehce kritick\u00fd. Bol\u00ed n\u00e1s nohy, m\u011b hlava, rozk\u0159\u00e1pl jsem si mobil, Iv\u010di je blb\u011b od \u017ealudku, nic nej\u00ed, ale state\u010dn\u011b \u0161lape. P\u011b\u0161ina se zu\u017euje, vede pod\u00e9l sr\u00e1zu, vzh\u016fzu d\u016flu, p\u0159es \u0161utr\u00e1ky. Mul\u00ed doprava houstne, jak se nabaluj\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed konvoje se zbo\u017e\u00edm do Lukly a Namche Bazaru. Jako by nesta\u010dilo, \u017ee m\u00e1m co d\u011blat s\u00e1m se sebou, je\u0161t\u011b se mus\u00edm vyhejbat smrdutejm osl\u016fm. Rozhodli jsme se to zap\u00edchnout o n\u011bco d\u0159\u00edv, asi 2h p\u0159ed Luklou.<\/p>\n

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I kdy\u017e jich v t\u011bchto kon\u010din\u00e1ch neproch\u00e1z\u00ed mnoho, Nep\u00e1lci jsou na treka\u0159e nachystan\u00ed. V ka\u017ed\u00e9 vesnici se najde bar\u00e1k nebo dva (Lodge), nab\u00edzej\u00edc\u00ed zep\u00e1r extra postel\u00ed. Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed je to sice dost punkov\u00fd, ale jsme za n\u011bj r\u00e1di. Elekt\u0159ina nen\u00ed nebo nefunguje, m\u00edsto z\u00e1chodu d\u00edra v zemi, jeden kohout se studenou vodou z\u00e1sobuje celej bar\u00e1k, netop\u00ed se a v noci je u\u017e te\u010f, v necelejch t\u0159ech tis\u00edc\u00edch, docela solidn\u00ed kosa (n\u011bco pod nulou). Nevim co budem d\u011blat tam naho\u0159e. Pan\u00edm\u00e1ma v\u017edy uva\u0159\u00ed teplou ve\u010de\u0159i a r\u00e1no sn\u00eddani. V\u011bt\u0161inou se vlezem do 400 K\u010d\/den\/os. (i s ob\u011bdem a n\u011bkolika kaf\u00ed\u010dkama po cest\u011b). Ceny rostou s nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161kou.<\/p>\n

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Letadlo n\u00e1m neklaplo a evidentn\u011b jsme nebyli sami, nebo\u0165 v\u0161echny lety v n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edch n\u011bkolika dnech jsou obsazen\u00fd. P\u0159istupujeme k pl\u00e1nu B, co\u017e je 11ti hodinov\u00e1 j\u00edzda jeepem. Bl\u00e1hov\u011b si pomysl\u00edm, uf aspo\u0148 se vyhnem Lukle....<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2313,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[28],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2311"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2311"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2311\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2319,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2311\/revisions\/2319"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2313"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2311"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2311"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tripblok.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2311"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}